Dry-aged chophouse

VYDERZHKA

One hundred and twenty days of silence. Eight minutes of fire.

24 Bolshaya Nikitskaya 34 seats around the fire Scroll
Short rib, 90 days Oak coals · 8 minutes on the hook · finished on volcanic stone

01 — Thesis

Meat cannot be cooked faster than it agrees.

Fire is the shortest part of the work. Everything that makes the flavour happens long before it: in a cold chamber, where the cut loses water and enzymes slowly take the fibres apart into sweetness and nut.

One room, one hearth, four cuts on the standing menu. Fewer items, more attention to each. Every piece is weighed in front of you before the fire and after, and the bill follows the actual weight.

Longest age
120 days
Cuts on the menu
4 always on
Heat source
1 oak and hornbeam

02 — Aging chamber

Time as an ingredient

The same cut on day twenty-one and on day one hundred and twenty is two different products. Pick a day to see what happens inside.

90days

Cut at this mark
Short rib

Our base

Density and sweetness come into balance: the cut is dark, the fat creamy, the taste roasted hazelnut and dried cherry. This is where our short rib sits.

Moisture lost 32 %
Flavour density 84 %

Chamber conditions: 1–2 °C, humidity 80–85 %, airflow 0.5 m/s. Every cut is weighed once a week and the weight goes into a log — that log tells us when a piece is ready to go out.

The hearth mouth across the full frame: a long bed of glowing coals under a stone lintel, low flames breaking through between them

03 — Fire

One source of heat

No gas, no convection, no thermostat. Oak and hornbeam, burned down to the point where the flame is gone and the heat is still there.

01

An even bed of spent coals on the hearth floor under a heavy stone lintel; almost no flame, grey ash veining the embers

Coals

The hearth is lit three hours before service. By the first guest only coals are left in it — even, with no tongues of flame.

02

A cut on a forged hook above the coals: drops of fat fall from its lower edge, flame flares beneath them, sparks rise

The hook

The cut goes to the fire on a hook: fat falls, flares and comes back as smoke. That is the only seasoning in the first minutes.

03

A finished short rib with a dark crust resting on a slab of porous volcanic stone, steam lifting from it

Stone

Finished on volcanic stone: the crust closes in ninety seconds, the juice stays inside the piece rather than on the board.

And ten minutes of rest. Cutting it straight away means giving up everything you waited for.

Every frame on this page is a still from one eight-second take shot in our room. We do not borrow other people’s food photography.

04 — The cuts

Four cuts

The standing part of the menu. Everything else — sides, sauces and the dish of the day — is on paper in the room: it changes every week.

Weight before the fire · price for the whole cut

  1. Dry-aged short rib: a dark dry crust on top, dense layers of meat and fat, three rib-bone cross-sections along the bottom edge

    Aged · 90 days

    Short rib

    Short rib

    700–900 g 6 400 ₽

  2. Bone-in ribeye: the long rib bone runs to the right, the cut face shows a marbled web of fat and the dark rind of ageing

    Aged · 45 days

    Bone-in ribeye

    Ribeye

    500–650 g 7 200 ₽

  3. Striploin: a rectangular cut standing upright, a thick fat cap along its top edge, even marbling across the face

    Aged · 45 days

    Striploin

    Striploin

    350–450 g 5 900 ₽

  4. Onglet: a long cut with a coarse lengthwise grain and a central sinew running down the middle

    Aged · 21 days

    Onglet

    Onglet

    300–350 g 3 800 ₽

The cut is weighed in front of you before the fire and after — the bill follows the actual weight. If a piece at the age you want is not in the chamber, the waiter says so before you order, not after.

05 — The room

The room in the evening: an open hearth burning at its centre, low brass lamps over the tables, a shelf of bottles along the wall, candles on the tables
Tuesday evening, 21:40

Thirty-four seats around the fire

The hearth stands in the middle of the room, not in the kitchen. From here every table sees a cut go onto the coals — and hears it.

Address
24 Bolshaya Nikitskaya
Hours
Mon–Sun, 17:00 – 00:00. Last order at 23:00
Seating
34 seats, 8 of them at the hearth. We do not hold a table longer than two hours
Groups
Up to 8 by reservation; more than that, the whole room only
Deposit
None. We just ask that you tell us if plans change

06 — Booking

A table for the evening

We confirm by phone within the hour. If you want a seat at the hearth, say so in the comment — there are only eight.

Demo form — nothing is actually submitted.